Hi. Thanks again for the quick replies, from what you have said I would guess these fish may well be stunted, I would guess they are about 6" long but are very rounded a bit like balloon mollies.
I did think they looked a bit cramped; the 125litre tank is the main tank.
Anyway I have forwarded your replies to my friend and he has decided to try your suggestions.
He has asked me to thank you all very much for your time and help.
I visit this forum every couple of days as well as the adf forum, a mine of information, great work folks keep it up.
Thanks again. Chris
--- In tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com, Dawn Moneyhan <dawnshungryeyes4u2c@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with everything Ray has said here. While my choice of medication would have differed, everything else we are in agreement on. Considering the conditions of the tank as well as the fish I would have suggested Melafix for a medication. There is less potential for issues with toxicity if the tank is cycling and it works quite well on parrot fish plus it has antibacterial as well as antifungal benefits besides being all natural ingredients. There are some fish that don't respond to it as well or at all, but for this situation that would be my first choice. It will be less harsh on the fish if they are experiencing other issues due to their previous and/or current conditions.
>
> Dawn
>
> Dawn Moneyhan
> Aquatics Specialist/Nutritionist
> To learn more about me go to
> http://www.helium.com/users/449334
>
>
>
> --- On Sun, 7/1/12, sevenspringss@... <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
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> From: sevenspringss@... <sevenspringss@...>
> Subject: Re: [tropical fish club] Sick Parrots
> To: tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, July 1, 2012, 1:01 PM
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> Hi Chris,
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> If this Bio-Clean product works (and it may, I'm not questioning it), then
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> with the newly set up tank being cycled, there definitely should be a
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> nitrate reading -- even one with a low level as would be expected, after the six
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> days of being set up with three large fish in it. -- although the nitrate
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> scale is in increments of 0.5 ppm (and there may not yet be enough to register
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> a 0.5 ppm minimum).. If this product doesn't work however, then there
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> should be a definite ammonia reading as this is the first waste product tio spike
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> during a cycle, at around 10 days into it.
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> There are still a lot of important fact not mentioned, which would be most
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> useful here. No where do I see the size of this larger tank which was just
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> cleaned. How many liters are we talking about here?
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> I also have never seen the size of these Blood Parrot Cichlids mentioned
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> anywhere, and I've read through every one of your messages. It would be
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> helpful to know their size. You're right though; the Blood Parrot Fish (Hybrid
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> Cichlid) does not get as large as the Parrot Cichlid (Hoplarchus psittacus).
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> This latter fish get between 38 cm. (15") and 46 cm. (18"). At 8 years old
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> though, These Blood Parrot Cichlids would certainly be fully mature, and
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> full size. They would be expected to be a minimum of 20 cm. (8") or up to
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> about 30 cm. (12"). depending upon which two Cichid species were used to make
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> the hybrid. If they're not that size, I might suspect they may have been
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> stunted as a result of housing them in too small of a tank over the 8 years.
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> Stunted fish often have health issues from this constant stress of being kept
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> in an inadequat sized tank for an extended time. Of course, I don't know
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> yet if this condition exists in these fish, but am explaining the result if
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> this possibility exists. Dawn is correct in stating the needed size tank for
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> these fish, hoping that's what size they're being maintained in.
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> There one extremely inportant water parameter of which the results were
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> never given -- and which I suspect has differed enough from the temporary 120
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> liter tank having the old water, from the newly set up larger tank. What is
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> the pH of the old water and what is the pH of the newly drawn tap water now
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> filling the larger newly-cleaned tank?
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> I noticed that a dechloramine was used, although I don't know if the tap
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> water contains only chlorine or whether it contains chloramine. I'm sure that
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> the correct water conditioner was used, as all fish would be dead within
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> the first 10 minutes if this weren't the case; it's just that I don't know if
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> the correct term had been used.
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> By my question above pertaining to pH, this is where I suspect sufficient
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> shock/stress has been given to the fish to have them contract body Fungus --
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> are you are right -- this cottony substance sounds unmistakenly like this
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> disease. Dawn has a good point of not adding more stress to these fish with
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> medications, but I would at least start treating them with salt -- at a
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> minimum rate of one teaspoon per 3.75 liters, the first day, and the similar rate
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> each day afterwards, for a total of 5 days. If the fish still look strong
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> at the end of 5 days, you may add another same amount of salt on the 6th
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> day. There are Fungal medications that are not very stressful however -- even
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> though this topic may be controversial to Dawn -- but in lieu of the
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> progressive salt treatment I just outlined about, I would add Furan 2 initially,
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> and add with it only enough salt to total 3 days worth. Temperature should
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> be raised to 26.6 o C. This will increase the activity of their immune
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> system, as their metabolism is raised. If they're in an adequate sized tank of
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> clean, newly set-up water, oxygen should not be an issue here, but it's
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> always good when treating sick fish, to increase the aeration whenever possible
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> to ensure maximum oxygen concentrations.
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> Ray </HTML>
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