Hi all,
very interesting to me too: I did not know that plants help with the ammonia/nitrite reduction. That might explain why my first tank became overnight stable after I added more new plants in the evening.
I had thought I had improved the filter but probably the amount of live plants was the solution :)
Somebody recommended before NOT to use API Co2 booster...
Is it very bad? I had used it a couple of times on my new tank but noticed that the substance (glutaral) was smelly. Is it bad for the fish or only for some plants? What should one use if at all?
I stopped adding CO2 for now because it seems all I needed were root tablets and the plants are growing again. But it would be nice to know what is considered safe? Are the CO2 tablets from "Jungle" better?
Does anybody know the plant supplement
FlorinMulit from Brightwell Aquaricts?
I had added those drops for a while but they seem to do nothing for the plants while the root tablets had a huge effect.
It would be great to get more info about what products are good or not if possible....
Thanks a lot,
Nora
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, SIMMONDS JOHN <simmonds.john@...> wrote:
>
> This is all extremely interesting reading because it is completely new to
> me-I didn't know there were *any* plants that consumed ammonia. Can I just
> confirm what you are all saying here-that using a heavily planted tank as a
> method of removing ammonia from the water is essentially 'temporarily
> cycled state' & that if the plants were removed then would the tank
> immediately go into a regular cycle with spiking ammonia & then nitrite
> before settling down?
>
> A couple more layman's questions:
> Are there also plants that eat nitrite & are these the same [or some of the
> same] plants as those that eat ammonia? Furthermore are these plants the
> same [or some of the same] plants that would ordinarily eat the nitrate in
> tank that has been cycled in the regular way?
>
> John*<o)))<
>
> *
> On 11 July 2012 22:26, <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Hi Dawn,
> >
> > While using plants to control the ammonia given off by fish cannot be
> > consider in the farthest stretch of the imagination to be considered as
> > "cycling"
> > a tank, when it's the plants that are controlling the ammonia and not the
> > bacteria, I agree that nitrifying bacteria would be present on their
> > surfaces
> > if they were removed from an established tank -- and rinsed appropriately
> > with tank water. You also made a good point when stating, "The key in
> > using
> > this method is in understanding the plants and the balance needed for
> > plants
> > and fish (waste). Just as you also said though, you've "seen many
> > references to people keeping planted tanks and see a lack of understanding
> > in what
> > makes up a 'fully planted' tank vs just a planted tank."
> >
> > You also stress that it takes a lot of plants to utilize a small amount of
> > waste, which many of us realize, but unfortunately all to few -- and all
> > of
> > what you've said contributes to one major point I am trying go make --
> > that
> > most members here don't realize that it takes a good many plants to
> > consume
> > relatively little ammonia, and that they need a well-planted tank to
> > control
> > the ammonia. Further, most hobbyists do not have a full understanding, not
> > only of what makes up a fully [lanted tank, but they have no concept in
> > what makes a balance of plants and fish (waste). It's for this reason, I
> > cannot endorse such a method on these Lists, as without the hobbyists
> > having an
> > undertanding of it, they're prone to failure. .
> >
> > As I stated in my previous post, a fully planted tank is subjective,
> > subject to that particular hobbyist's planting preferences in the amount
> > of plants
> > one uses. There is no formula or even rough guideline for them to follow
> > in attempting any kind of balance, and unfortunately they themselves don't
> > have the first clue.
> >
> > But, even if this "balance" were accidentally found, this would still not
> > constitute having a nitrogen cycle in the tank -- at least not one that
> > can
> > come close to utilizing the ammonia given off by a normal stocking of
> > fishes
> > if these bacteria needed to be relied upon to do this job themselves. What
> > would happen if the heater stuck on long enough to kill many of the plants
> > but not cook the fishes (and there are many plants that suffer before 90 o
> > is
> > reached)? I don't think I need to tell you; without the needed amount of
> > plants, and with grossly inadequate bacteria populations, the ammonia is
> > going to rise at rate directly dependent on the amount of fish in the tank
> > (many
> > hobbyists stock at levels more towards the limit rather than more
> > sparsely,
> > even if they don't exceed it). A full cycle of nitrifying bacteria, on the
> > other hand, will survive until 120 o, although of course by that time
> > every
> > fish will be dead -- but the point here is that these bacteria will
> > survive
> > temperatures where they and fish will make it through while many plants
> > will perish. A tank will still stay fully cycled at 90 o -- if of course,
> > it
> > was cycled in the firtst place -- and so will most fishes survive,
> > provided
> > the alert hobbyist is aware enough to pull the heater plug. Nitrifying
> > bacteria actually thrive best at 86 o, although we seldom want our fish up
> > in
> > that range.
> >
> > Ray</HTML>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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