In the few years I have been involved with fish keeping & my limited
experience I have realised there is very often more than one way to do
things & something else that I think is very important is when you come
across a system that works despite it going against everything in the
proverbial rule book then I leave well alone & don't try to change
anything, if it ain't broke-don't fix it.
From your test results & maintenence regime it certainly appears that you
have very good water quality. I don't know enough about water chemistry to
answer your query about the pH fluctuating although I can tell you that a
stable pH is the thing to aim for rather than a 'textbook' value. BTW, I
know exactly what you mean about the test results being difficult to pin
down. I think basically when it comes evaluating to the nitrate results [at
least with API] red is not good, orange is so-so & yellow is good. What is
your test measurements for tap water?
John*<o)))<*
On 17 July 2012 06:52, nonstopmom888 <ehebens@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Hi again,
>
> thanks for your answer! I am sorry I keep digging for more info but I have
> to ask: why would it be a problem if the cycle is more confined to the
> aquarium than the filter? If e.g. the plants are taking over a large part
> of toxin removal it seems to be a similar situation (the bio filter being
> less important)?
> I checked the water values today and Ammonia/nitrite are 0 (as good as I
> can tell with the color table of the liquid set) and nitrate is less than
> 10. The pH is at least 8 (or 8.1,8.2? also difficult to tell with the color
> table).
> Does anyone know if the pH would go up or down by time if problems arise?
> Right now I do approx. 30-35% water change every 5-7 days and it seems to
> keep things stable with apparently (hopefully) happy fish...
>
> Thanks, Nora
>
>
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