Hi Ray,
Here in the UK the API Master Test Kit contains both nitrite & nitrate
tests, has done for at least 7 years since i have been buying them. The
full list of what they contain is 5 separate tests: pH, High Range pH,
Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate.
John*<o)))<
*
On 12 July 2012 18:49, <sevenspringss@wmconnect.com> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Hi Lee,
>
> I'd seriously suggest your getting at least an ammonia test kit. A master
> test kit containing most of the important individual test kits are
> available
> for $20 or less, though; this is an API (Aquarium Pharmaceutical Inc.)
> master test kit, which is good quality and easy to "read" the colors. This
> is
> the only way you have, to be able to know exactly what the parameters of
> your
> tap water and your aquarium water are, and the test results are essential
> to be able to keep your fish in a healthy state, in good water conditions.
>
> I see you do have a pH test kit though, and you state yopur pH is very
> high. Further, your local pet shop also told you the area's water's pH is
> very
> high. They are correct in telling you that don't have to (and shouldn't)
> worry about it -- PROVIDED that you keep up with a regular regimen of
> doing
> sufficient PWC's at sufficient intervals so as not to allow the organic
> waste
> products of the fishes to elevate to toxic levels. As you have no other
> test kits besides one for pH, at this time, you can't know the condition
> of
> your water and what waste products might be in it.
>
> The monthly partial water changes are rarely frequently enough to maintain
> a tank's water in proper enough condition to promote the health of fishes.
> You don't say how large of a partial water change you do monthly, but the
> general rule of thumb for a properly (and not excessively) stocked tank is
> to
> do between 25% and 33% PWC's weekly. I'm highly suspecting that your too
> infrequent PWC's have resulted in an increase of at least one of the
> organic
> waste products normally found in the nitrogen cycle at one stage or
> another.
> If for some reason your nitrogen cycle isn't working properly (as possibly
> being interrupted), your ammonia may well have increase to toxic levels.
> The higher the pH, the more toxic the ammonium/ammonia becomes, as more
> Free
> Ammonia is released from the Total Ammonia (combination, ammonium and
> ammonia) due to the increase in pH. Ammonia is highly toxic to fish -- and
> Nitrite
> is even more toxic. Even nitrate can reach toxic levels when insufficient
> PWC's aren't performed, and monthly PWC's are fasr from frequent enough.
>
> Without changing enough water, you may eventually expect your fish to get
> illness -- Fungus certainly being one of them. High levels of contaminents
> (organic waste products not being removed) will stress fish to the point
> of
> weakening them, causing them to contract these illnesses. As you don't
> have
> any other test kits on hand at the moment, I can only advise you to make a
> series of small PWC's over the course of the next several days, replacing
> whatever salt you remove when taking out water. As soon as you get your
> test
> kits -- and you need to check if the nitrite and nitrate kits are provided
> in
> the master test kit (one of them needs to be bought separately, but I
> don't
> recall which one) -- do your tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
> and
> give us the results -- in numbers. For now, without reducing the suspected
> contaminents, you're risking that their levels may even reach beyond
> toxicity to lethal. If by some strange chance that you water contains very
> little
> contaminents (which I doubt), the PWC's will never be harmful to your
> fishes, so it will never be done in vain, but it's your best bet now to
> help your
> fishes without knowing your water's condition.
>
> I notice you are doing PWC's evey day lately, because of the hot weather.
> The water you add should never be more than 2 o cooler that that of your
> tank. Any greater difference can also stress your fishes. After the new
> water
> is added, you may help cool the aquarium more slowly by placing an
> electric
> fan at one end and letting it blow across the surface, unless you have a
> full light fixture over it. The fan will evaporate the surface water,
> inducing some cooling effect. Some hobbyist use zip lock bags with ice in
> it, but
> here you need to balance how much ice as compared to the size of the tank.
> For smaller tanks, you shouldn't use too much ice. Another method is to
> place a soda bottle half full of frozen water into the tank, with lots of
> circulation in the tank. This should only be done in larger aquariums, and
> even
> then, the thermometer should be monitored to prevent the temperature from
> dropping too far and too fast. The aquarium should never be allowed to
> drop
> in temperature more than 4 or 5 degrees (slowly) in one day, as without
> you
> being there to help in cooling it off during the night, it will only rise
> again and this fluctuation is also stressful. BTW, please give us the size
> of your tank. If there is any procedure outlined here as being adverse to
> what one should do, and if you've done any of these wrong procedures, let
> us
> know to inform us further in offering advice.
>
> Ray</HTML>
> _
>
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