Hi Amber L.,
If you're going to use an Ich medication, there's no need to increase the
heat. Ich medications are formulation to act against Ich at normal tropical
aquarium temperatures. As many Ich medications are toxic to living
organisms to some degree (some organisms affected more than others) since this is
how they kill Ich, they're also toxic to a lesser degree to fishes and can
cause them stress. As such, there's no need to use any medications against Ich
if using the salt and heat treatment; salt should be used at a level of
oner tablespoon per 5 gallons.
However, while raising the temperature to 85 o will of course increase the
metabolism of any organism (except for warm-blooded mammals which regulate
their temperatures), and will speed up their lifecycle -- including Ich's --
it also makes Ich more virulent as the temperature approaches 85 o.
Fortunately, the increased temperature also increases fishes' immune systems even
though it may cause them some stress as the treatment extends (which may take
up to 10 days), although not as much stress as some medications will cause.
The use of salt will help weaken Ich, but its main function is to
stimulate the fishes' production of an increase of the body mucus coating, making it
much more difficult for the Ich to get a toe-hold on the fishes' skin.
To be effective though, the temperature must be boosted to minimum of 86
o, at which point Ich is no longer able to reproduce. At this temperature
too, Ich's lifecycle will be speeded up to only 48 hours. With them dying off
after this time, and with fewer of them being able to find a fish host as
each cycle passes and then not having newer generations of them, they are
soon decimated. However, as Ich's cycle is 48 hours at this temperature, one
must ensure the temperature is not lowered until at least 48 hours after
seeing the last signs of them on the fishes -- and preferably up to about 60
hours after seeing the last of them. Then, the temperature should be lower
back to normal, but only gradually over a period of at least 24 hours.
As the salt & heat treatment is by far the most effective against Ich,
while producing the least amount of stress, most hobbyist who know about it now
prefer it above any other treatments. There's no risk to scaleless species
such as Cory Catfish, Loaches, "Elephant-Noses," and "Whales," as there
otherwise would be if using a dye medication against Ich. As there are some
species which normally prefer slight lower normal temperatures, they may be
expected to have to endure somewhat more stress at this temperature, but
increased aeration is always advised. Besides, heavy water circulation also makes
it more difficult for Ich to find a host. As thermometers (and heater
settings) can vary, it's always adviseable to boost the temperature up to at
least 87 o rather than try for an exact 86 o, which you may not really achieve
when considering these possible variations in equipment.
Ray </HTML>
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