Hi Michelle,
Alright, now back to the gist of the matter. So -- you moved Whiskers from the 10 gallon which you were maintaining him in, to this "main" 50 gallon tank. Okay, we got that much established. Now, while we fully intend to help you (and Whiskers) as much as we can, we need your cooperation. So far, despite our requests for very important information from you -- such as you supplying us with the test results of the water both in the 10 gallon tank and in the 50 gallon tank, you have not complied. Such information is crucial to our recommendations in proceeding here. You also have not given us any info on what, if any, other fish you have or had in with Whiskers. We can only help you as much as you help us.
For starters, as best I can see him in his plastic bag, I would tentatively identify him as Synodontis decorus or a very closely related species. The pattern of his spotting is indicative of a pattern that S. decorus gets at a certain age/size though, so at least for now this is what I'm going with. This is not this species' fully adult pattern though, albeit the species is somewhat variable. Young juveniles of S. decorum are often imported in small quantities from time to time, and without the hobbyist researching the fish further, its attractiveness often leads to its quick sales to unsuspecting fish keepers.
A point here is that Synodontis decorus reaches about 12" to 13" when fully mature; he appears to be at least 6" or possibly 7" long at this stage. Difficult to discern when there's nothing else to compare him to in size, but even if he were 5", this fish does not belong in a 10 gallon tank as it's too small for him and with that, water quality issues can quickly pop up. You still haven't said if there were any other fish in this same 10 gallon tank with him, and I hope not as that would be crowding things even more, but even if he were just by himself, I'm sure you can see that a fish of this eventual size does not belong in this small of a tank as it will too soon cause issues that are unforeseen if you're not monitoring the water by frequent testing -- or doing enough maintenance of weekly partial water changes, etc.
That said, the 50 gallon tank would be better for him to be maintained in permanently, but right now we need to get him on the mend. First of all, let us know what, if any, other fish you have in this same 50 gallon tank. Ideally (preferably), there should be no other fish in the same tank as one being used as a hospital tank to medicate a sick fish, as healthy fish need not be subjected to the medications needed to treat a sick fish. Now, while you can treat Whiskers in this 50 gallon tank -- provided there are no other fish in this tank with him -- it's going to be a lot more expensive to do so because of this much greater quantity of water, which I explained in a previous message. My recommendation is for you to drain and clean the 10 gallon tank and refill it only with water from the 50 gallon tank, provided that water is fairly clean (free of contaminants) -- but you'll have to give us the test results of this water, for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You can supply the test results for the pH too, but as Whiskers is already acclimated to it, it's a moot point unless it's adverse to his well being.
Now provided this 50 gallon tank's water is suitable, fill the 10 gallon tank with it and transfer Whiskers back to it. Medicate him there with the Fungus Clear (by Jungle Labs) product I recommended, ASAP, and he should clear up shortly. These issues are usually not to be addressed at leisure as it's imperative that fish get treated promptly with the right medication in as short of time as possible, to ensure a good recovery, so further delay is not an option. After he's fully recovered, put him back into the 50 gallon tank for permanent maintenance and continue with a regular maintenance regimen. Let us know if you have any other questions, and keep us advised of his progress.
Ray
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Michelle" <kittycathobbes@...> wrote:
>
> He was in a 10 but I moved him to the main 50 gal
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, sevenspringss1@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi Michelle,
> >
> > Could you please clarify this? While I understand from your latest
> > message, that you have a 50 gallon tank, in your second message (#55168 -- July
> > 23. 2013 @ 8:14 PM EDT), you wrote: "The water was bad so I moved him. . . "
> > So, buy this, I'm just assuming that Whiskers is no longer in your 50
> > gallon tank -- unless your hospital tank is 50 gallons (?). What size tank
> > did you move Whiskers to? Did you move him to a 50 gallon tank? If so,
> > don't you have a smaller, hospital tank, in which to treat individual fish?
> >
> > Normally, a full treatment consists of three doses -- sometimes
> > administered on three successive days and at other times every other day. To
> > determine the frequency (and number) of the doses, you'd need to refer to the
> > directions on the medication's label. One tablet treats 10 gallons. Eight
> > tablets will treat 80 gallons of water. If you're using a 50 gallon tank as a
> > hospital tank, and you have no other option with this tank other than to
> > keep it filled with 50 gallons of water, then your first dosage would be 5
> > tablets. You would need to buy one more box of this medication which, along
> > with the three remaining tablets from the first box, would be enough for
> > up to two more doses of 5 tablets per dose (with one tablet left over), but
> > again you'll need to check the directions for the number of doses.
> >
> > Usually a hospital tank is no larger than 10 gallons, and quite often just
> > 5 gallons or even 2 1/2 gallons. A 5 gallon tank would be large enough to
> > medicate one "average" size fish in. Your Synodontis catfish would do
> > better in a 10 gallon hospital tank. With a tank this size, it's extremely
> > easy to administer medications, and many medication doses (capsule or
> > tablet) are manufactured to treat just 10 gallons. With a 50 gallon hospital
> > tank, unless you have a filter on it which would cease working if the water
> > level fell, many hobbyists drop the water level to a depth of only 20 gallons
> > (or even 10 gallons) to facilitate medicating with less (but adequate)
> > medication. BTW, if your using a filter in your hospital tank, remove any
> > carbon you may have in it. Otherwise, this carbon will remove the medication.
> >
> > Ray
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 7/25/2013 12:09:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > kittycathobbes@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > my tank is 50 gal. how many boxes of that (Jungle Labs Fungus Clear)
> > treatment do I need? It says it has 8 tabs for 80 gal but is that for one day or
> > the whole treatment?
> >
> > --- In _AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com) ,
> > "Ray" <sevenspringss1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > As my IE browser would not open the link provided, I had to cut & paste
> > it to my Mozilla FGirefox browser to open it. Unless I was redirected to a
> > different page than what was intended, I read a series of posts -- both by
> > the owner of a Cory Catfish named "Feldman," and by a couple of advisors to
> > the owner. Unfortunated, because of an undeterminable diagnoses and
> > indeterminate recommendations of medications (Maroxy, Erythromycin, Tetracycline
> > and Kanamycin) for treatments not necessarily connected to Feldman's
> > illness (never concluded), this fish died. So, I have a feeling I was not on the
> > right page. Could the contents of this link's page be explained (in short)
> > here?
> > >
> > > For Michelle, What size hospital tank did you put Whiskers in, and what
> > are its water parameters (in numbers)? Do you have any other fish in the
> > same tank that you just took him out of? If so, what are those water
> > parameters? Please follow up on this part as any other fish in this main tank would
> > be at risk.
> > >
> > > In looking over your photos, it's hard to see much detail when the
> > plastic bag this fish is in obscures a good view. I don't really see the Fin Rot
> > that John happens to see, but that's not to say it's not there. Just that
> > I'm not picking up on that detail with the fish's fins being largely closed
> > (and the plastic obscuring my view). I do see a couple of white blotches
> > (one larger than the other) on the fish's side, beneath the dorsal fin,
> > unless they're reflections from the plastic bag. As I'm seeing these blotches in
> > all three pics though, I'm starting to assume this is an issue that needs
> > attending to. If what I'm seeing is actually on the fish, it appears to be
> > a bacterial infection, but if there's any dead or dying tissue caused by
> > the bacteria, fungus could soon set it if it hasn't already as it's often a
> > secondary infection.
> > >
> > > As we need to stay away from any dye medications, or any medications
> > containing a dye in addition to its main ingredient(s), the medication of
> > choice here would be Jungle Lab's (trademark) Fungus Clear; it's ingedients
> > address both fungal and bacterial issues -- especially gram-negative bacteria
> > which would be the cause for this issue. Before admninistering any
> > medications though, the water must be relatively free of contaminants, especially
> > those contaminants caused by organic wastes. If in doubt about the hospital
> > tank's water being suitable to use for treatment (medication) purposes,
> > feel free to give us those water parameters. You may need to make at least a
> > 1/3 partial water change to this tank before medicating, as is often
> > recommended on most med's labels, but this remains to be seen. BTW, this
> > medication will also address Fin Rot if it's present.
> > >
> > > Ray
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In _AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com)
> > , harry perry <harryfisherman@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/
> > topic/132050-help-help-cotton-like-fungus-on-cory-catfish-pictures/
> > > >
> > > > Try this.
> > > >
> > > > Harry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Michelle <kittycathobbes@>
> > > > To: _AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com)
> >
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 7:54 PM
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: EMERGENCY
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Â
> > > > The water was bad so I moved him but now I really need to find a
> > treatment
> > > >
> > > > --- In _AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com_
> > (mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com) , SIMMONDS JOHN <simmonds.john@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Michelle,
> > > > >
> > > > > Your Catfish looks to have some serious fin rot & probably other
> > stuff
> > > > > going on as well. I don't want to advise about medications because
> > a) I
> > > > > don't know anything about Catfish treatment & b) I'm in the UK so
> > your
> > > > > medications in the States are different to ours. Hopefully someone
> > on your
> > > > > side of the pond can help you out there real soon.
> > > > >
> > > > > I do notice that the water in the bag is rather cloudy so if the
> > water in
> > > > > your tank is like that too then you need to do some serious partial
> > water
> > > > > changes because the toxins could be well off the scale & that will
> > weaken
> > > > > your fish further. Do you have a test kit & if so can you tell us
> > what the
> > > > > readings are for your tank?
> > > > >
> > > > > John*<o)))<*
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > On 23 July 2013 09:52, Michelle <kittycathobbes@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > **
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have no idea what this is but it is harming my fish!!!!! It is a
> > catfish
> > > > > > (look at the picture I post of my catfish!!) someone please help
> > me! I love
> > > > > > whiskers with all my heart
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
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