Sorry, when I said 'wait' for the water I meant cycling etc. I may need further advice for this. I plan to start Monday once I have a test kit. When I am home I will look through everything my friend gave me so I can establish what else I require.
Please understand I am a complete novice, so may ask a lot of questions, some of which you may think are obvious. I have looked online, but often get conflicting info, so would rather discuss with people .
Thanks for all your help so far.
Kez
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, SIMMONDS JOHN <simmonds.john@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Kez,
>
> I'm sorry-I should have posted these links for you a couple of days ago
> after Dawn's message but I had been so busy it completely slipped my mind &
> Amber's post has just jogged my mind! The reason for cycling any new system
> be it tank or pond is to get a stable eco-system up & running for the fish
> to feel at home. By simply dropping fish into water their waste immediately
> starts to pollute the water & unless there is some biological process in
> place then the water will soon become polluted. There are 3 stages to
> cycling & is where filters come in-the fish waste collects in them & the
> filter is the main place that the cycling happens-think of the filter as a
> sewage farm. The first stage is the beneficial bacteria [good bugs] turning
> the ammonia into nitrite. Nitrite is also highly toxic but another set of
> good bugs turns the nitrite into far less harmful nitrate. This nitrate is
> still a problem if left unchecked & unfortunately there is no third set of
> good bugs to help us out so this is where the water changes come in-the
> more water you change the more dilution of the accumulated nitrate.
> Obviously the smaller system you have & also the more fish then the quicker
> it will get polluted meaning more frequent & larger water changes.
>
> Some people still use 'disposable' fish to do this cycling job but the
> levels of toxicity during the process are not only stressful for the fish
> involved but can also be permanently damaging-hence the use of raw ammonia
> [or fish food-see link] to simulate the fish waste. I have been told by
> unscrupulous stores in the past to simply set up a system & let it run for
> a week but of course without anything producing ammonia I could let it run
> for a year & it still wouldn't change anything. The process of cycling can
> take anything from a couple of weeks to over a month depending on so many
> different factors but daily testing with a good kit such as the API Master
> Test Kit will tell you how your eco-system is developing. Have a look at
> the links here:
> http://theaquariumwiki.com/The_Art_of_Fishless_Cycling
> http://malawicichlids.com/mw01017.htm
> The graph in the last link clearly illustrates how firstly the ammonia &
> then secondly the nitrite [NO2] will spike & then fall giving rise to a
> healthy nitrate [NO3] reading. I'd also mention that although the second
> link is from a Cichlid website the information in it is exactly the same
> for all types of fish.
>
> Sounds all very technical I know but it really isn't that hard once you get
> into it & we are all here to help you if you have any problems-let us know
> what you think.
>
> John*<o)))<
>
> *
> On 2 June 2012 03:25, Amber Berglund <arberglund@...> wrote:
>
> > You have to do more than just 'wait' for the water. if you want it to be
> > cycled before you add fish to the tank you'll have to get some plain
> > ammonia (without surfactants/soaps), I don't know how much you have to
> > add each day off the top of my head, but I'm sure someone can help you out.
> >
> > Amber
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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